Wristwatches are an intrinsic part of good style, and those with a particular interest in horology are likely to choose a model that is special or significant for one reason or another. Models such as the Omega Speedmaster and Moonwatch are often in focus when discussing models of historical significance, being associated with a particularly iconic individual. In this article, however, we instead turn our attention to those models which are perhaps less well-known among the uninitiated, but all the more prized among timepiece enthusiasts. Some are of great historical significance while the importance of others is more specific to the timepiece industry. Above all, though, they are all irresistibly elegant.

Rolex MilSub

Every man with an interest in watches knows about the Rolex Submariner. When you learn more about its history, you begin to understand the significance of the model’s provenance. This provenance tells the story of a particular watch – who wore it, where they wore it, and why they wore it. The Rolex MilSub, for example, is a bespoke version of the Rolex Submariner that was issued to military personnel at the UK’s Ministry of Defence (M.O.D.).

During WWI, combat divers, known as 'frogmen', took on an increasingly central role. For them, a reliable watch was cruicial. The Ministry of Defence (M.O.D.) approved Rolex as its supplier of divers' watches in 1957. Their A/6538 reference model was then modified to make it even more suited to its purpose - its bezel was enlarged for better grip when wearing gloves and its material was switched to a softer metal alloy designed to deform, rather than shatter, under extreme stress. Fixed lugs were chosen which, together with a new nylon strap, made the watch almost impossible to lose. The M.O.D.'s technicians switched the luminous coating from a (radioactive) radium-based formula to one based on tritium, leading to the unmistakable 'T' on these models. Moreover, the MilSub model was the first Rolex to be worn by Sean Connery in his role as James Bond.

The original idea was to use a completely new reference model, 6540, for this purpose, but in the end, they chose to stick with 6538. Certain examples are purported to have a crossed out ‘6540’ on the case back that has been replaced with ‘6538’. The model is one of the most sought after among collectors, with only around 1 200 examples having been produced, including those with the reference numbers 5513 and 5517. Today, only a handful remain that haven’t been lost in service or had most of their original parts replaced. It was not uncommon for these watches to play a decisive role in the outcome of military operations and, by extension, in the path of human history.

Hamilton Ventura

Hamilton’s Ventura looks futuristic even today, despite being designed in 1957. The model’s most innovative feature was its battery-powered electronic movement. But it would take another twelve years before the vibrations of quartz crystals would be used to regulate electronic timepieces. The Ventura was instead equipped with a more-or-less mechanical movement, equipped with an electric drivetrain.
Its unique design has truly stood the test of time, leading it to be featured in films such as Men in Black thanks to the almost sci-fi character of its then-revolutionary aesthetic. The Hamilton Ventura was even worn by Elvis Presley in the film Blue Hawaii. In our opinion, the timeless design and electronic movement of the Ventura was the first step towards the technology that would come to be the saviour of the entire industry. Even if the Swiss watch industry was affected by the arrival of cheaper electronic watches, battery-driven movements would come to be the innovation that kept the industry ticking over.

Zenith El Primero

Zenith was established in Le Locle all the way back in 1865 by Georges Favret-Jacot, and quickly became known for producing some of the world’s most precise timepieces. After WWI, Zenith began experimenting with adding chronographs and alarm complications to their models. Automatic movements, using a rotor and kinetic energy from the wearer to keep the watch wound, had already been developed for standard three-handed watches, but had never before been used for a chronograph.

It took until 1969 to perfect the technology, when Zenith launched their very first chronograph with an automatic movement. Mistakes in marketing, however, meant that some of the brand’s competitors had launched their own automatic chronographs a few months prior. However, these copycat models were far from as advanced, well-made, and uniquely designed as the robust El Primero model, a name which means ‘The First’ in Spanish. Historically, chronographs have been particularly important tools in sport and industries where exact measurements of time are crucial. For this reason, the automatic chronograph is a true milestone in horological history.